The Chinese Experience.....

Ready to travel with my little companion

When I was first asked to run in the Fuxian Highland Ultramarathon, I thought that it sounded like an exciting opportunity to visit a new place (I've been an expedition medic trekking and cycling in China before but never to the Southern Highlands) but I wasn't sure if it would come off. This may sound rather pessimistic, but I have been invited out to the Far East to race before, only to have the event change dates at the last minute, so leaving me unable to rearrange leave from work.

As it was, I wasn't sure if I was going to make it this year either, as there were a few sagas associated with getting my visa, and even my travel out wasn't as smooth as it could have been (my plane returned to the terminal at Manchester after leaving, and then landed at the wrong terminal at Beijing, so I had to collect my luggage and recheck in for my domestic flight......all with the aid of sign language and positive thinking as little English was spoken).

Not sure about this buffet option...

Eventually I got to the race hotel (though the bus driver tried to drop me somewhere else) some 24 hours later, though unfortunately without my luggage, but luckily it arrived by the next day and I could relax, unwind and catch up with running friends from various parts of the globe.

The sushi was much more to my liking

There were several of us out from the UK, so we had a good time trying short breathless runs (it was amazing how much we were affected by the altitude, both breathing-wise and sleep-(or lack of)wise) and giggling over the various "interesting" buffet options.

All too soon it was race day - I was running the 100k, though most of my fellow Brits were racing over 50k. We were all due to start together and so although I tried to keep reminding myself not to even think about running with them, as I would still have another hilly 50k to go once we crossed their finish line (the 100k took in a whole lap of the lake, whereas they would be bussed back from the far side), it was nice to be able to chat to my friends Hannah and Sue for the first mile or two.

Relaxing pre-race

I figured that this meant I was running too fast, so soon dropped back and watched them go, but I was going about the same speed as my fellow 100k runners (Meghan from the US and Frida from Sweden) so that seemed OK. 

There was a long out and back along a dual carriageway relatively near to the start, and the far end of it had no central boards. This meant that although I didn't see the fastest 50k men, I could see the women's race unfolding ahead of me, and could encourage my friends. I was just ahead of Meghan and Frida as we turned but they soon passed me, and though I thought about going with them (I had so much respect for Meghan's running that I knew she would be good at setting a sensible steady pace) but the pace was slightly too tasty for me.

With Meghan, Frida and some Chinese runners

As it turned out they went slightly to and fro over the next few kms, and I ended up catching up and joining them, until Frida put in a surge and dropped us. There were some Chinese men also running with us, which neither Meghan not I were big fans of, as they would spit, cut you up and pass wind without so much as a second thought.

The flat concrete wasn't the most inspiring so Meghan and I were looking forward to "the hill" though everyone had been worried about it, as we had to climb about 150m to the highest point of the course (at over 1900m above sea level), though obviously it wasn't a straightforward climb as there were undulations on the ascent.

I've always preferred ascents to descents and thought I tried to take it as easy as I could, I suddenly found that I'd moved a significant way ahead of Meghan and was starting to overtake more of the 50k ladies. I caught and passed by Frida without seeming to alter my effort level (a couple of words of encouragement were exchanged), and then just after the 25k mark I passed Hannah who was run-walking up the hill. 

With Jo and Sue pre-race

It was already a fairly lonely run, so a quick chat with a familiar face greatly helped. After passing the high point, I fully expected the other two to come roaring past me, although the "long descent and flat section" from 35-50K that I'd "remembered" from having been driven round the course did still have a few climbs. I ran faster than planned downhill, but I didn't want to tire my quads out from consciously braking, and actually felt really good. Luckily, the morning had been overcast (with some wind early on) so it also didn't feel as hot as we'd feared.

To my surprise, I kept passing 50k ladies (and a couple of men from both distances) and when I passed by their finish, only 5 ladies had finished. I looked out for Jo and Sue (it turned out they finished in 3rd and 4th places respectively) but they were probably still in recovery mode, as I didn't recognise anyone at the side of the road. 

Lakeside near the 50K finish 2 days earlier

The sun had come out by this time, and I was rather jealous of their lakeside finish.....especially as all I could see ahead of me was an empty road with no other runners. It was definitely a "race" of two halves as the first and second 50k stretches were about as similar as night and day.

I really enjoyed running the first part, but I have to admit that the second half was the toughest road race I've ever done and there were many occasions on which I thought I wouldn't finish (and really didn't care if I didn't either!). The sun was out in full strength and there seemed to be no shade, little water and the concrete just became harder and harder underfoot. It was also a very lonely road that I traveled and each 5k stretch seem to become longer and tougher.

The route and profile map

The first two weren't so bad, except that it did seem odd to head away from the lake for 5k, up on a dual carriageway past fields and then a slightly more built-up area (so there was roadside support) and then back down again towards the shore. I was getting quite thirsty (so much so that I was tempted by a stream I saw beside the road)  but was also quite keen to visit a portaloo (there was one every 10k) so it was with immense relief that I crested a hill and saw the 60k aid station.

Unfortunately the portaloo was really just a box round a hole in the ground, so you had to take a few bottles of water from the aid station in with you, and squatting wasn't really the comfiest thing to do with tired quads.....but I guess it also meant that you didn't spend too long in there and were back on the road again as soon as possible.

It was a beautiful course...honest!!

The next few sections came and went with each one being more of a struggle than the previous one. Most people that I passed along the way felt similarly to me.....the heat, the sun and the altitude were taking their toll on us poorly-adapted runners (eg I live at sea level in Scotland.....not a country known for its warmth and endless sunshine). I had thought about adopting a run-walk strategy....or even going for a 3k run from an aid station until I ran out of water, and then walking the next 2k but somehow I managed to keep my legs moving (just about). 

A view of the lake on a slightly cloudier day

It would have been an absolutely beautiful course (the sun was reflecting off the lake as the road wound up and down hillsides beside it, and the hedgerows were full of purple sage and bougainvillea) had I not felt quite so rubbish. Although it was so tempting to call it quits, I hadn't come all the way to China to do that so I was determined to make it even if it took me all day. I was counting down the miles....initially until I got to see everyone from the 50k who was back at the hotel (as I knew I'd pass it with just over 5k to go), but then I'd just be thinking about making the next aid station.

When I got to an aid station, my routine was the same. I'd pick up my bottle, but stop dead, empty 2 cups of water over my shoulders, 2 over my head, drink 1 and then pick up 2 bottles and 2 cold sponges. 1 sponge was squeezed over my head (with a bottle chaser) and the other I'd take with me for a little way along the road, along with the the extra bottle. As it turned out, the sponges were laced with soap (no wonder you got a funny taste in your mouth) and so washed off any remaining sunscreen....which would come back to haunt us later!

I was desperate for one of the other ladies to overtake me as I just wanted to walk, but felt I couldn't as there'd been a van and a motorbike with to cameras in front of me for the last 25 or so kms. Both Meghan and Frida had said that they love the sun/heat and so I couldn't work out why they hadn't done as I wished and passed me. I could no longer tolerate my gels as the heat/altitude was making me feel sick, so whenever I picked one up, I'd just put it down my top "for later"! 

Caught walking on Chinese TV!!!

Eventually I gave up and at about the 83k mark I started to walk up one of the steepest hills. Suddenly Valeria shot past me as if she was just out on a normal run at home. Being from Argentina, I guess that the altitude and heat didn't affect her as much, but I tried to raise a cheer and encourage her to keep pushing for the win as she looked so strong.

I finally crested that hill and caught Vale up again on the descent, but at the 85k aid station she grabbed her drink and gel and carried on (taking the tv crew with her....phew!!!) whereas I stopped as usual, tried to cool off and get more liquids down me.

Trying to look like I was running past the hotel

I don't really remember too much after that, but I know I did try to keep running as much as I could. I admit to a further little walk up the hill just before our hotel, but I was back running (in a fashion) as I summitted it. The hotel was just as I started to descend back down to lake level.....you'd think a descent would be welcome, but by that point I'd have kissed and cuddled anyone who would bring the finish line closer, and I didn't know if my legs would hold me up going down the slope.

I clearly didn't get enough soap from the sponges to wash my mouth out properly as I may have shouted some naughty words about it being the hardest race I'd ever done as I passed my friends by the hotel. They tried to encourage me and keep me going (though luckily waited until later to tell me what a "lean" I had as I was trying to run). The girls told me that I had a good gap behind me and could walk to the finish if I wanted to (as I really thought I'd vomit if I tried to run much more), and then hijacked a car to be driven to finish, screaming and shouting at me as they passed.

A VERY welcome sign

A Chinese man walking back from the finish gave me the really useful info that I was the second lady, but when I asked where 3rd was, he said "100m". I knew that I still had 4.5k to go, so desperately tried to work out how much distance I could afford to lose with every remaining kilometre. By then I was just trying to get to the next kilometre marker (as there was a countdown of the last 5k). I knew that my speed was probably much slower than my parents do for a parkrun, but my legs felt like they were going to collapse as they wobbled with every impact. At times there were cars coming towards me, which I thought strange as the roads were meant to be closed, but I didn't have the energy to move sideways so they swerved round me.

In a world of hurt coming into the finish

As I neared the finish, I saw Jo and Hannah coming out to greet me, and Sue was also there with her camera, though I can't say that I spared much of a thought for what I looked like. The "100m behind 3rd lady" still hadn't passed me so I shouted to Jo and Hannah to ask the gap. Hannah told me that no one was in sight and that I could walk home as it was about 500m to the finish. I promptly did, so she said that she didn't really mean it and I should get running. Somehow, despite all my protestations, I did and the finish line swayed into sight.

"Was that a PB for you?"

A hard-won finisher's medal

I've never been a drama queen before but I only just made the line before my legs gave way completely and I was on the floor. Race staff came and offered me towels and blankets, but the girls had it spot on with ice and water down my back, on my head and to drink. They were fab, even shielding me from media cameras and attention, and helped me get up and walk away from the line.....kindly refusing the offer of a stretcher....get my bag, take my shoes off etc.

Not the most glamorous podium ever

Valeria had a great race and took the well deserved victory so hats off to her. I am proud of myself for not giving in and getting to that finish line (though I found it funny when a to crew asked me if I'd run a PB and I had to say it was a PW by over an hour) and cannot thank "the girls" enough for their help and encouragement, after having run 50k themselves. I was back with it by the time Frida came in for 3rd place (10 minutes behind me....not 100m) and also managed to cheer in some of the others I'd passed along the road, including Meghan who'd really struggled with the altitude that day.

Getting my silver medal from Hilary

A random car and bit of cardboard as a prize!

All in all, the trip was a fabulous experience.....if not my favourite running experience.....and I am so thankful to have been invited out there to take part, visit an amazing place, and have the opportunity to catch up with old friends and make new friends from round the globe. I love that running (and suffering) unites us all......as did the post-race buffet and bar back at the hotel!