The Southern Upland Way Part II

Beattock...that's over halfway...right?

It was so nice to get into the Beattock CP and see both the smiling faces of the volunteers there....and spot my dropbag containing clean, dry shoes and socks....and it was a surprise to see Nat there, but she left just after I entered. Covid rules in Scotland were such that you had to wear a mask to enter a building but then you were allowed to remove it to eat and drink, so it felt a bit like doing the hokey-cokey sometimes having it on-off-on-off!! 

Getting to Beattock, I convinced myself that every step was a step closer

The first thing I did was peel off my wet shoes and socks with a huge sigh of relief.......and the volunteers exclaimed over the start of my feet....trenchfoot eat your heart out! The skin was macerated and white and just generally disgusting! I sat on the edge of the stage to air them whilst being waited on hand and foot - well, I was brought 2 large plates of food (1 of boiled salted potatoes and 1 of delicious hot pasta and veggie sauce) and and a mug of coffee and long with some cordial. I had also developed some ankle pain during the past couple of sections which was making trying to run quite difficult - it was probably due to a combination of constantly rolling my ankles slightly on the uneven ground (especially in the night/in the boggy areas) and a recurring issue of tibialis posterior tendonitis (interestingly, although I'd been struggling with some achilles pain for many weeks, I hadn't felt it at all during the event so far). Having had a good feed and sit down, I took some antinflammatories from my dropbag and hoped they would kick in. 

I could have kissed the volunteers when they offered to give my feet some TLC....they even had talc and tape so I did not need to delve around in my supplies too much...and soon I had dry feet, my ankle taped, clean socks on and was debating how long I could leave it before putting on my "new" shoes! Time enough for another mug of coffee anyway, and then it was on with the shoes, and off with me as I had been there for a good hour! As I headed back out of Beattock the way I'd come in, I realised that I was no longer in pain and could actually run again (maybe not at any earth-shattering speed, but I was definitely running) - yeay!!! 

So good to be able to run in the hills again!

Having also worked in that area, the roads and hills around Beattock and Moffat were slightly familiar to me as well, and I was just so happy to be running again that I couldn't take the smile off my face! It was also nice to see the odd friendly face out on a hillside enjoying the day and cheering us on. As I climbed up out of the undulating Moffat farmland and back into forestry areas, there was a big route decision to make. To be fair, there wasn't really a decision to be made, as the race instructions distinctly told us that we must take the "high route" and climb Croft Head rather than stay on the forestry road that continued up the valley. I caught up to another runner just before the two routes diverged and he was having none of my "we definitely have to go this way" and insisted on taking the "low route". I stuck to my guns and actually really enjoyed the really steep climb up in the sunshine as, on reaching the summit, it was a glorious ridge run through the heather with fantastic views all around. I could have shouted for joy....which is rather unusual for me on a ridgeline....but I have to admit that it was my favourite part of the whole route, and (even more surprisingly) I also loved the steep winding path down the Cat's Shoulder at the end of the ridge. 

The Cat's Shoulder

What did surprise me on the descent (though I guess it was not altogether unexpected) was to see that I would have to pass the same guy again, as the low route was much shorter and less strenuous, hence he was ahead of me on the trail again. However, as I climbed up the path to Ettrick Head, I passed the race organiser who stopped me for a photo and video chat/interview, and he advised me that anyone who had taken the low route (and he did mention the very same runner by name) would be given a time penalty. To be fair, the time penalty didn't really bother me, as my main sadness for anyone not taking the high route was that they would miss out on the best bit of the SUW! 

Admiring the view having not just survived, but loved, the ridge!!

Reaching the watershed

Ettrick Head is not only the border between Dumfries and Galloway and the Scottish Borders, but it is also the watershed of Scotland so now I was going the same way as every drop of water en route (even if I feared some might be going there in my socks/shoes later on!). From that highpoint there was a really long runnable stretch, initially down through forestry, but then along a quiet tarmac road, and so I just let my legs go, enjoying being able to turn them over at a fairly decent speed (I think I actually did some 8 minute miling!!). To reinforce my belief that I was having a good stretch, I caught up and passed Nat on the road, and bearing in mind she'd left Beattock a good hour before I had, it reinforced the benefit to me of time spent refueling and looking after myself properly at CPs. 

Woohoo....a runnable stretch....

Unfortunately this CP was another one which involved going over a mile beyond where the SUW turned off the road, and the CP flags were on the wrong side of the road by the wrong building, but I eventually found the right place (and gently suggested to the marshals that as we were all carrying trackers, it might be a kind gesture for them to be looking out for us - which they obviously took on board as they went out to wave Nat in on her arrival). When asked what I would like to have, I requested 2 large portions of whatever food they were serving, a couple of mugs of coffee in succession and then also restocked my pack with snacks. I was given a plate with 2 massive doorstops of toast covered in a whole tin of baked beans to work through....and just as I finished it, another one was brought out for me. I think it was harder to get all that food down that any part of the run so far, but I'd asked for it, so I felt I had to consume it.....though I never wanted to see another baked bean again by the time I finished! 

The endless baked beans....

I had been going to ask Nat if she wanted to buddy up for the rest of the distance, and if not, then at least overnight - as I'd enjoyed the company and the chat over the previous night and it had made the hours of darkness pass by more quickly. Unfortunately I didn't get a chance to do so, as she came into the CP, said she wasn't stopping but just grabbed some food and drink to take with her and was back out of the door within minutes. Once I'd finally finished my beans, I got my night time gear ready, stocked up on snacks and headed on my way. I caught up with Nat again after retracing our steps back to the SUW and we left the road together to go up and over to St Mary's Loch. She was using poles so could power away ahead of me in the steeper hiking sections, but whenever we ran I would catch her back up. As it flattened out, there was a bit more running than walking so I stopped and waited a few times in order for us to stay together as the evening drew in, but this sentiment was not reciprocated so I eventually decided that the next time I caught her up, I would just keep on going. 

Down by St Mary's Loch

I did briefly stop at the bottom of the hill, as the way through the campsite between St Mary's Loch and the Loch of the Lowes wasn't the easiest to spot and I wanted to make sure Nat could see where to go, but then I carried on running along the beautiful trail that undulated along the water's edge. St Mary's Loch is 5km long, but I managed to keep my pace up so that I made it all the way to the far end before needing to put my head torch on, but unfortunately the light gave out as I crossed the road at the far end towards the ruins of Dryhope Tower. 

Imagine this...in the dark...with hidden barbed wire

I'm sure that the next section would make a lovely scenic daytime walk up and over Blake Muir and down to Traquair but it was not exactly my best section of the route. I started off stumbling over every single tussock and falling into every single hole across some rough ground in the dark.....and every time I'd think I was on a little trod going in the right direction, I'd then lose it again. At one point it felt like I'd been thrashing my way through bracken for about an hour, only to find myself back at the SUW marker post I'd previously been at - grrrrr!!! I did come to total standstill at one point when I managed to embed a prong of barbed wire all the way into the back of my thigh, and had to physically pull it right out to be able to move again - nice - only to then feel the back of my leg getting wetter and wetter with blood (o the glamourous sport of running!!). Eventually I got myself going in the right direction and found my legs again on the long steady descent towards and through Traquair (I've been to Traquair House in the past, but I somehow didn't think the cafe and microbrewery would be open in the middle of the night!!). 

And mist....

As I headed out the other side onto the rough trails that climbed up onto Minch Moor I got the shock of my life when a man appeared out of a hedge (OK so he had been sitting in a car and there was a gap in the hedge there, but I was rather tired!) and offered me food and drink. Although a very kind offer, I still had a fair supply in my pack, as I was feeling rather nauseated due to lack of sleep, but as my head torch had been acting up slightly (I think it was actually the fact that it tends to dim when it encounters anything reflective rather than a battery issue) so he kindly lent me another one (there's nothing like running with three headtorches on you!!). 

Not exactly the easiest to fight your way through....and it's even worse in the dark!!

The map then showed several miles of wild open moor to cross, which sounds relatively straightforward, but I did manage a few "loop the loops" of rough bracken and heather, stumbling up and down slopes trying to find my way safely. I had to pass the "Three Brethren" which are cairns marking the meeting point of three of the largest Scottish estates, and although  they looked quite ominous as they loomed at me out of the dark, it was actually a huge relief to see them and know I was on course for the next CP. As I then entered woodland I passed a man who looked like he was struggling a bit with back issues - and it turned out that he was the long time race leader. Further on down the trail, I met his support crew coming out to find him on mountain bikes - but I was amused when they asked me the way, as I was doubting my navigation at that point thinking that I really must have missed the CP somehow. 

The Three Brethren in daylight

Luckily I hadn't, and it was just further than it appeared on the map - and completely unlit in the dark - but I finally made it......and found that the male leader of the race was there too. He saw me and hastily put on his pack and set off again, whereas I had to stand for a minute or two to let a few waves of nausea settle. The back of my leg was covered in blood, but I guess we are meant to look after ourselves during the race so when I asked for some help to clean it up, I was offered a few wet wipes. Luckily they actually did the job and the flow had almost stopped. I couldn't really face eating anything (I know - unheard of for me - so I just had a mug of hot chocolate and decided to try to get a bit of sleep to make me feel more human). There were no mattresses there but there was a small sofa so I sat down on it and put my waterproof across my face to block out some of the light. I longed for ear plugs as sleep did not come, but after about half an hour of sitting there "resting" I felt like I could stomach some food. 

A bacon butty and mug of chocolate later I tried for another kip....but after another fruitless half hour of trying, I decided that I might as well get on my way and hope to get some sleep at the next CP. By this time it was starting to get light again, but I still made a few wrong turns whilst finding the route out of there. I found it hard to get my stiff legs to run again, and so "luckily" I was soon climbing another hill, hence walking was the perfect pace to go. Up and over I went and down into Galashiels - and I think I'd timed it "perfectly". It was daylight so I could see where I was going, but still too early for people to be out and about on their way to work and catch sight of my sorry bedraggled self trudging along the streets (I did get one funny look from a cyclist!). 

Along the banks of the River Tweed

The route then followed the river to Melrose, which was really pretty once you got to the riverside, but it was rather dispiriting to cross a suspension bridge and realise you had to go a long way back the way you'd come, along the other side of the river before heading up into more farmland over Kedslie Hill and down into Lauder. All the way down into Lauder, I was encouraging myself with thoughts of some good food, a lovely cup of tea and a sleep, but when I arrived into town, I just could not find the CP. I trotted up and down the 2 main streets that seemed to run parallel to each other several times but just could not locate it and after about half an hour, I decided to give up, but something at a local shop and just carry on my way. 

On leaving Lauder I got to pass through the grounds of Thirlstane castle, which I'm sure is a beautiful place to visit, but I was just so devastated to have missed my long awaited lie down, that it was all I could do not to cry! I had to cross a road at the far side of the castle grounds, but suddenly heard my name being called. A van drew up, and out jumped one of the lovely marshals from the Lauder CP. She said that she'd spotted that I hadn't been able to find them from watching my tracker and so decided to find me. She gave me a big hug (which caused me to actually break down and cry), and told me sit/lie down in the back of her van whilst she gave me some food she'd brought from the CP and boiled me up a cup of tea on her van camping stove - what an angel!! 

So happy to see the marshal looking for me that I even played aeroplanes :-)

View to the Eildon hills

The 10 minute nap I had in the back of her van was amazing, and I managed it without even spilling my tea (Ok, so I actually just dozed off whilst sitting there holding my mug, but it was magic none the less).....then I had another big hug and was sent on my way again, climbing up onto the Lammermuirs. This heather moorland is relatively flat so the views stretched out away from me to the horizon. 

On the Lammermuirs

The only problem with such a panorama was that you could see just how far you still had to go, but then again, I could also see my next "target" from a long way off. As I headed for the high point of the Twin Law Cairns  (huge stone cairns built as monuments to two warrior brothers), I realised that I'd not seen another soul for hours and it was as if I had all of the moors (right across to the Eildon and Cheviot Hills) to enjoy by myself. 

Twin Law Cairns coming into view

The descent down to a minor road was lovely underfoot, and before long I was traipsing along round the side of Watch Water Reservoir. I thought I had to go beyond the end of the reservoir to get to the next CP, so it was with delight that I crested a small hill and saw it just ahead of me. It was soooooo nice to have a proper sit down and get some decent food into me (and the marshals even did exactly as I wished, and put large chunks of butter on my bread :-) )!! I was enjoying the chat (OK, yes, and the rest) so much it was with great reluctance that I left them to it and carried on my way through a tiny village called Longformacus (I think the name was longer than the village itself) and a few farms. 

Masked up to enter the CP by the reservoir

Eyes swollen from lack of sleep, but loving the bread and butter!

As I passed through endless farmland (occasionally going right across planted fields when I couldn't see way around - sorry Mr Farmer) and then woodlands, I kept looking at my watch and trying to calculate how far I still had to go. I really really (really) wanted to finish before sunset, but this was countered by the fact that I really really (really) wanted to lie down where I was and cry/sleep!! Tough call - and many a mental battle ensued! Even when I crossed the main road going into Cockburnspath, I still wondered if I would ever make it to the finish. 

A nasty (which sadist put that there?) twist in the route meant that I had to zigzag up a really steep wooded hill before approaching the coast. I have to say that this did seem to be a rather pointless addition to the journey (no, it wasn't just me taking a wrong turning) as there was actually a path around the base of the hill....and you never actually broke out of the trees so it wasn't as if you were sent up there for an amazing view or anything!! Earlier on, I would have loved the run down off it, but my legs were so stuffed by this point (doubly so after the tough trudge upwards) that it was too painful to manage much more than a "running hobble/limp" as I descended.

As it turned out, it wasn't exactly going to be a short run anyway!!

 

I came out of Penmanshiel Woods and hoped I'd finally be directed into Cockburnspath, but no, the route took me away from the village and down a small road towards Pease Bay and way too many metal steps that I had to descend, ascend and descend again. I decided that if I was going to be sent down onto the beach and back up again, I would stage a sit down rebellion until someone came to find out why my tracker wasn't moving!!! Luckily for my mental health, I didn't have to go down to the beach....but I'm not sure that having to go up onto the clifftop path was that much more pleasant. If I'm honest, I'm being more than a bit harsh in saying that, as the cliff top path was stunning - with several rocky, atmospheric coves and cliffs to admire in the waning sunlight. 

On the final clifftops

Just as I was wondering how many more clifftops I would have to run round, I spied a figure up ahead. It was Tubby, an old Dumfries Running Club mate who had been volunteering in the early stages of the race and then come over to help at the finish. He'd run out to encourage and see me in.....and got me moving a lot faster by telling me that I only had a mile to go and that i was going to break the FKT (fastest known time) for the SUW as well as the race CR (course record). I managed to up my pace and ran as hard as I could...but after about a mile, I asked him again where the finish was....only to be told that it was still a mile away....luckily for him, I had no energy left to swear (and he could have run away from me much faster than I could chase him!!).  

Dying on the final clifftops, map in hand

The final stretch into the finish

The race director also came out of the village (with a camera.....though I'm fairly sure I was not looking my most photogenic) to escort me in as I still had a couple of fields to skirt, a road to duck under and then a nice climb into the village itself. Pride wouldn't let me stop running and at last I rounded a corner, past the war memorial and saw the finish gantry. The sun hadn't yet set, my friend was waiting for me.....and I was told that I'd set a new FKT despite my added kms (I ended up covering 375kms instead of the official 345km of the SUW) and had broken the ladies' CR by 17.5 hours......so not a bad result despite all my misgivings and threats to myself to quit!! The icing on the cake was a hug from my mate and then being driven to my other friends' house for a good feed, a shower and a bed (though somehow I still couldn't sleep!!) - magic!!

Still no clue re my nav....even at the finish!!

My finisher's buckle and trophy!